Photo taken by author, Barbados
Barbados' heritage
It is important to me that my designs have meaning and a connection to Barbados in some way. While looking into materials to incorporate into my work I stumbled across the finest of them all- Gossypium Barbadense, better known as Sea Island Cotton.
Sea Island cotton is like no other I have worked with. Like silk to the touch, it looks and feels luxurious. It also holds a significant place in the history of the island. Being one of the few remaining tangible connections to its past, it is deeply entrenched in its heritage. Additionally, it is extremely rare.
Sea Island Cotton ripe for harvesting. Photo taken by author in Newton, Barbados
The Origins of Sea Island Cotton
Gossypium Barbadense has a long and complex past and I have found historical accounts to be contradictory. It is my understanding however, from reading various sources and speaking with representatives of the cotton industry here in Barbados, that it is indigenous to the Caribbean region and parts of South America.
In the 17th century, European colonisers arriving in Barbados recognised the superior quality of the cotton and it quickly became a profitable crop. It was in high demand in Europe and the United States, where it was used to produce high-end textiles.
The name Sea Island Cotton can be traced back to the Sea Islands off the coast of South Carolina, Georgia and Florida where it was cultivated in the 1700s. Contrary to popular belief it did not originate there, but was in fact taken there, from Barbados as an experimental crop.
Barbados boasted the best conditions for growing Sea Island cotton. Its tropical climate, consistent rainfall and fertile soil meant the crop continued to thrive, while in the Sea Islands production went into decline.
The Riviera Polo was originally designed in the 1950s and was later tailored for Daniel Craig in Casino Royale. Made from 100% Sea Island Cotton sourced from the West Indies. Available at Sunspel.
Exclusivity and allure
For a long time, Sea Island cotton has been synonymous with the most exquisite apparel, with Queen Victoria herself favouring Sea Island Cotton for her handkerchiefs. The softness of the cotton was unmatched and its exclusivity made it all the more appealing.
Authors like Ian Fleming had a penchant for Sea Island cotton while living in Jamaica and in his James Bond novels, the character is often described wearing clothing made from Sea Island Cotton, including his signature white dress shirts. This association with Bond has helped to further elevate the cotton's status as an opulent and aspirational material.
Sea Island Cotton, photo taken by author in Newton, Barbados.
A Sustainable Crop. Lasting luxury
Barbados is unique as a cotton producer, not only because of its distinctive ecological attributes but also for its commitment to the meticulous and deliberate methods required to cultivate Sea Island Cotton and ensure nothing less than perfection for the end product.
The production of Sea Island Cotton in Barbados is generally considered sustainable. It is grown on small plots of land and cultivated using traditional methods that prioritise environmental conservation and the long-term health of the soil. To this day the cotton is hand-picked and the processing takes place on a small scale which is monitored carefully.
Clothing made from Sea Island cotton is very durable, easy to clean, breathable, and hypoallergenic. With consumerism shifting from mass-produced items to support slow fashion, there is a willingness to invest in clothing made from Sea Island Cotton that will stand the test of time and remain beautiful.
After ginning, whereby the seeds are removed from the cotton, the seeds are either used as animal feed, resown the following season or used to make oils and skin care products rich in vitamin E. I have been told the oil can be used to treat skin cancer.
Barbados' Sea Island Cotton is predominantly exported to Europe, where textile manufacturers have the necessary infrastructure and equipment to process the cotton into yarn and fabric.
Only items made with genuine West Indian Sea Island Cotton will bear this stamp of approval
Barbados Sea Island Cotton brand. Preserving SIC for the future
In the mid 19th Century cotton production in Barbados began to decline for a number of reasons including competition from mass production in other countries and declining soil fertility on the island. Farmers began to shift to other crops such as sugar cane and tobacco.
In the early 1990s The West Indian Sea Island Cotton Company (WISIC) was founded with the aim of reviving the production of Sea Island Cotton on the island.
Specialising in the cultivation, processing, and marketing of Sea Island Cotton, WISIC works closely with local farmers to ensure the use of sustainable farming practices.
Minister of Agriculture, Food and Nutritional Security Indar Weir recently revealed plans to conduct a comprehensive review of Barbados' cotton industry. The aim is to establish a complete value chain for the Barbadian cotton industry.
By forming partnerships to encourage private investment and increase the amount of land under cultivation, he hopes to raise production levels considerably.
The role of a handful of local artisans using Sea Island Cotton in their work is crucial in raising awareness of the cotton as a Barbadian product among both Barbadians and visitors. Without this connection, it would be impossible to establish a Geographical Indication (GI) for Sea Island Cotton.
Men's Sundowner Cuff Bracelet with local Sea Island Cotton